Black models are rocking the runway and fashion shoots as the industry now strives for more inclusion. However, behind the camera, a basic need remains unmet: Afro and textured hair care. From models doing their own hair on set to the push for more hairstylists we uncover the realities behind the scenes of shoots.
There are many models who show up to shoots and have to do their own hair because the majority of hairstylists are not trained in styling textured or Afro hair.
Alexis Dunkwu has been modelling for roughly 5 years. She has worked for big publications such as Vogue and Vera Wang and occasionally makes appearances for music videos and commercials.
In an interview with her, she expressed how she often does her own hair on shoots or has to come with her hair done beforehand.
“I would say that 90% of the work that I’ve done, I’ve done my own hair. Whether that’s having my hair up or just slicking it back, having a ponytail, et cetera. 90% of the time it’s been myself.”
The only times she would get her hair done would be for high profile clients such as Wiz Kid or for Fashion week. She stressed that it was due to most stylist not being trained in 4C type hair. This is something that she and most models do not expect when starting their career in modelling. Due to this, she has sadly gotten into the habit of not expecting a stylist that knows how to do her hair on set.
Although an issue like this could affect ones performance on set, for Alexis she would not feel the same. At times where she thought a hairstylist would be on set, she would not let it get to her. Her hair does not define her looks but rather from understating the situation she’s in.
“Do you know what God’s got me anyways so I can rock this shoot with or without the best hairstyles. I’ll just pose in a way that my hair’s not necessarily visible.”
Although models like Alex are able to sort out their own hair on shoots, the issue of untrained hairstylists on sets remains. So why are all hairstylists still not trained in all hair types?
The Stylists View
Abbey Osho, is a hairstylist and educator who specialises in Afro and coily hair types. She owns her own salon in Kent and is occasionally asked to go teach in academies and colleges. She feels that hairstyling education is still lacking in teaching for afro and textured hairstyles.
“I think we still have a long way to go” She explained that lecturers are not trained in Afro Hair types and makes it harder for students to have that knowledge. She understands that the government is trying to make changes in hairstyling education but thinks there needs to be more of a push to have afro/ textured hair knowledge and more lectures with this in education curriculums.
“I think a hairstylist needs to know how to deal with all hair type to deal with the basic aspects of all hair.”
Although there is a lack of afro and textured hair recognition, Abbey has noticed that the interest to include this teaching from organisations has grown.
“There has definitely been an increase of interest in colleges wanting to include the aspect as part of the services that they provide, but I still think there’s still need to be a bit more work that needs to be done.”
She also added that there needs to be more full-time staff to teach these subjects instead of just inviting her temporarily and hopes to work in teaching part time and rather than every now and then.
When asked how she thinks that this affects the modelling industry, she thought that it’s a major problem. There needs to be more inclusion on sets and a wider range of hairstylists from different backgrounds.
The importance of having the right hairstylists does not just stem from the inclusion and representation part of modelling but also the care that goes into styling.
“A lot of models actually suffer as a result of that, because their hair is not being looked after properly while they are creating the styles and a lot of them come out of their shoots and they have problems with their hair.”
Alexis explained this problem to not be the best feeling. Having the ability to do her own has advantaged her in many ways but is not what she’s paid to do. “You know, people are on set that get paid to be a hairstylist, whereas I’m my own hairstylist.”
How are modelling agencies dealing with this issue?
Although shoots are mainly based on what the client wants, there should still be a responsibility for them to be inclusive. Recruiting black models is not enough to show this inclusion, they need to feel like they’re wanted and that they cared for.
Manuela Nigro is the founder and director of The Hair Models Agency. It was created “to address a very clear gap in the industry — the lack of genuine inclusivity and diversity, especially when it comes to hair textures and types.” This agency specialises in a range of hair types and textures and makes representation key.
Although The Hair Models Agency have not faced the issue of having no hair specialists present on set, Manuela explained that her company has had to step in and advocate for proper hair styling. On these several occasions they were either arranging for specialist stylists to be on or advising the production team. Ensuring the models needs are in important in shoots and should always be prioritised.
“Advocacy is a daily part of what we do, not just for the sake of professionalism, but to protect the wellbeing and dignity of our models.”
Manuela still wishes to see more progress in hair inclusion in the industry. “Much of the change still feels surface level.” To her, actual progress would mean properly trained hairstylists on sets and “seeing Afro/textured hair treated as the standard, not the exception.”
What should be done now?
Brands and production teams need to have a reset on their attitude towards inclusion. Although many black models are being recruited and included in the modelling scene, doing just this is simply not enough. Education also needs to grow in the hairstyling training. The push for afro and textured hair knowledge should be the standard and not optional.
Models like Alexis would like to see more hairstylists that can do her hair on set. She recognises that there has been changes in the industry, but a lot more needs to be done.” We do exist and we’re everywhere. We’re not going away.”
For Manuela, this change starts from accountability and education. Committing to inclusion and having more hairstylists is essential. She says that production teams need to prioritise this inclusion.
“Listening to Black and textured-hair models about their needs and experiences — and acting on that feedback — is essential for real, lasting change.”